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Four Sticks Scottish Heavy Ale

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Four Sticks Scottish Heavy Ale

back to search Back to Search  Style Details 

Beer Style: Scottish Heavy 70/- (9B)
Recipe Type: extract
Yield: 5 US gallons

Scottish Heavy 70/-

Description:

A 70 shilling Scottish Ale courtesy of HardCoreLegend from BeerTools.com. A malty Scottish ale but not really heavy at all. The final product was 3.875% ABV and less than 25 IBU. This beer was judged to be a Blue Ribbon beer at the 2008 Clark County WA Fair. Try it!

To make good Scottish ales, they need plenty of active yeast to start fermentation, use a yeast starter. For my 2 pint yeast starter, I started it about 30 hours before starting to brew. I used one drop of olive oil with the yeast starter per the Brew Your Own article (May-June 2008 edition) to lessen the need for aerating the wort after pitching the yeast. (I still aerated the wort for 15 minutes as described below. Another key with Scottish Ales is cooler fermentation temperatures (try to keep fermentation temperatures between 60-66 degrees F).

Ingredients:

  • 4 oz. Black Roasted Barley 500L
  • 1 lb. Crystal Malt 60L
  • 1.75 lbs. British Pale Malt Marris Otter Two Row 4L
  • 1 lb. Light Dry Malt Extract
  • 3.3 lbs. Liquid Light Malt Extract
  • 1.0 oz. Willamette Hops (Flowers, 4.5 %AA) boiled 60 min.
  • 1.0 oz. Willamette (Flowers, 4.5 %AA) boiled 15 min.
  • Wyeast 1728 Scottish Ale Yeast
  • 3/4 cup Corn Sugar for priming bottles

Additional Instructions

Primary Ferment: One week should be fine fine but I kept it in the
Secondary Ferment: One to two weeks (I kept it in the secondary ferme

Beer Profile

Original Gravity: 1.045
Final Gravity: 1.014
Alcohol by Vol: 4.06%
Bitterness IBU: 24
Recipe Type: extract
Yield: 5.00 US Gallons

Click to Print Recipe

Procedure:

A full wort boil used. Steep 2.0 gallons of water with 4 oz. of Black Roasted Barley, 1.75 lbs. British Pale Malt and 1 lb. Crystal 60L Malt for 30 minutes with the heat on low. (154 degrees F is the preferred temperature). Heat in a second pot 3.0 gallons of water to 170 degrees F. After 30 minutes at 150-154 degrees F, strain out the grain and sparge the grain with 3.0 gallons of 170 degrees F water. Turn the heat to high, add more water to the pot to get to 6 gallons and bring the liquor to a boil. Remove the pot from the burner and add 2 cups malt of malt extract. Return to burner to get to a boil, dissolve the malt extract and add 1.0 oz. of Willamette hops. Boil for 60 minutes total duration. With 15 minutes to go in the boil, add 1.0 oz. Willamette hops. Clean and assemble the wort chiller and place into the hot wort to sanitize it. At flameout, add remainder of malt extracts and stir to mix, wait 10 minutes to sanitize (late extract addition method). Make sure the wort temperature stays above 165 degrees F while the malt extracts are dissolving. When all the extract is dissolved and sanitized, move the brewpot to the kitchen sink, connect the hose to the wort chiller inlet, turn on the water faucet to pass cold water through the hose and cool the wort. The tubing outlet goes in the kitchen sink. When the wort is cooled, transfer and strain the wort into the sanitized carboy, then top off to the 5.25 gallon mark as needed with additional cold (preboiled) water. Seal the fermenter with a sanitized stopper. Mix the wort well and take the original gravity measurement and wort temperature and record. Open the fermenter and pitch (pour) the rehydrated yeast solution in when wort is cooled to under 74 degrees F. Stopper and mix well again. Open the fermenter and put the sanitized aeration stone in the wort and aerate the wort and yeast for 30 minutes minimum. Remove the aeration stone. Apply sanitized stopper with fermentation lock, fill fermentation lock partially with water and cover fermenter with a blanket. Ferment at 60-66 degrees F in the dark. Try to get the fermentation temperature as close to 60 degrees F as you can and stable. Bubbling should start within 24 hours. Primary fermentation should last at least 10 days or until the bubbling has subsided to once every minute. Be sure to let the wort rest in the primary fermenter for a couple days after fermentation has finished. Transfer wort to a sanitized secondary fermenter. After siphoning all the wort, place the sanitized fermentation lock on the fermenter and partially fill the lock with water. Record temperature and final volume of beer for secondary fermentation. Hold secondary fermenter at 60-66 degrees F in the dark closet or cool basement or garage. Try to keep fermentation temperatures as constant as possible. After two weeks or when the secondary fermentation is done (this beer should be dark but clear), clean and sanitize 55+ bottles with dilute Iodophor for bottling. Sanitize siphon, carboy, spoon, beer thief, thermometer, bottle filler and 60 bottle caps. Prepare priming solution by bringing 2 cups of water to a boil and adding 3/4 cup corn sugar to dissolve. Cool priming solution and add to clean and sanitized bottling bucket (carboy). Take the final gravity measurement from the secondary fermenter, wort temperature and record. After secondary fermentation is done, siphon beer into the bottling bucket (carboy). Mix the beer and priming sugar in the bottling bucket with paddle end of spoon. Add the bottle filler to end of siphon tubing and make sure this assembly is sanitized afterwards in Iodophor. Begin siphoning beer into bottles. Place caps loosely on each bottle after filled. After all bottles are filled, use bottle capper to cap each bottle. Place bottles in warm dark place to carbonate. Hold bottles for a total two weeks in room temperatures (68 degrees F+) to carbonate. After the carbonation period, place bottled beer in a refrigerator to cool. Serve by decanting beer into a beer glass when a cold brew is desired. Enjoy it!

Source:

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